- Category : Fashion Designer
- Type : GE
- Profile : 3/5 - Martyr / Heretic
- Definition : Triple Split
- Incarnation Cross : RAX Consciousness 2
Jacques Esterel ( 1917 in Bourg-Argental - 1974 to Paris in France ) is a designer French.
Student of the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Métiers in Paris he graduated with an engineering degree and then opens a company in the field of machine tools in Paris. Meanwhile, it is songwriter and occurs Tabou at Jacob's Ladder, the Lapin Agile at Bobino . He recorded a few records between 1955 and 1960 ( custody , painters , for nothing , the brave ) and gets the Oscar for French Chanson in 1956. Many artists, such as the Frères Jacques enroll in their repertoire. He wrote plays, including The evil eye that was grand prix Paris TV and an operetta Flon Flon . Francis Blanche gives the reply.
In 1953 he invested in haute couture and opened a fashion boutique rue Pierre Charron . He presents his collections under a formula associated with fashion, poetry and performances. Success helping, film personalities or song come to honor the place of their presence such Michèle Morgan , Catherine Deneuve , Jean Seberg , Claudia Cardinale and Édith Piaf .
In 1957 founded the "new wave of fashion." Filmmaker Michel Boisrond began shooting his film La Parisienne confident the role of this mutation in Paris, free and provocative, Brigitte Bardot and designer Jacques Esterel one to complete this Parisian spirit. Other filmmakers solicit assistance: Jack Pinoteau , Georges Lautner , Edouard Molinaro , Jacques Tati .
In 1958 the designer moved Faubourg Saint-Honoré and urges the stylist Alexandre Penneroux. It provides the first fashion journalists Presentation Show . The models parading background jazz music.
1959. The Brigitte Bardot icon, selecting for her marriage to Jacques Charrier a dress fabric gingham pink, trimmed with broderie anglaise in the designer, will bring to power the first method followed by mass the next generation. Plus a detour street is spared by lolitas enjuponnées, bun crepe BB The notified textile industrial Marcel Boussac , horse enthusiast and aerospace axis bulk of its production to the manufacture of small gingham fabric that girls snapped Republic Square in the "Canvas Tickets" sign belonging. This dress will be reproduced in series will tell the designer "have managed to empower a generation to apply to live" .
Under the French influence on behalf of Air France, over forty tours are organized to present its collections in Latin America, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, North America, USA, Canada, Asia, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and is therefore needed his creative genius to the need to expand the range, segment markets to meet a brand policy in gestation, and thus boost its licensing to the four corners of the planet.
1960. He establishes with the Galeries Lafayette a partnership between Couture and department stores to the chagrin of his colleagues who quickly do the same. With the aphorism "Everything that is not logical is destined to disappear" , the innovative fluid flowing in his veins, discerns undeniable correlation between the right of the many to the elegance and the need serving. Now an unknown customer in a retail store, will have the opportunity to acquire a branded model PAP and participate in the draw to win a garment.
Launch of the male line RASTIGNAC, so close to the body it is impossible to slip her love notes in his pockets, as is the slogan. The deliberate abandonment of the narrow confines of traditional fabrics and men in favor of bold fabrics is another feature. A fashion accessory for men complement emerges: The essential masculine bag.
1961. "A couturier, he says, must go very far in audacity" . To tempt fate, he decides to exit the collection to present his supermodel Trinket, shaved head. Consulted on the matter, Helena Rubintein believes "that the experience was worth a try. Lack of hair makes her eyes extraordinarily value ..." In the same vein it will induct catherinette in 1968, his model muse by the painter Salvador Dali and divine.
1962. To meet the crisis caused by "Vatican II" on the abandonment of the cassock in favor of secular costume, Jacques Esterel is approached by the French episcopate floor on a new outfit clergyman. The transition from one style to another should be weighted so in the quiet and, frankly, in a certain spirit. Jacques Esterel realizes this first suit for the first French priest. For religious, refuse this change is considered by his superiors as pride and go against the Council, which will tell Bishop Veuillot those who were not in the sense of history, "Will you dress man ".
1964. The organizers of the Olympics, Jacques Esterel entrust the privilege of dressing the French women's team for the Olympic Games in Tokyo. The feat was renewed in 1968 for Mexico as the women's team as masculine.
Fully playing the concept of limited edition fashion designer is dedicated to market hostesses. It will dress nurses public assistance, hostesses Federation flax, Marie-France magazine, the Mont Blanc Tunnel, the European Club of tourism, the U.S. firm Manpower temporary work, among many other .
1965. Christian Leander Ganga succeeds stylist Alexandre Penneroux.
The designer says its ready to wear men's institutions J. Weil son in Besançon , firm under contract with Johnny Hallyday , support his campaign with gala key. The parade Jacques Esterel before delivery of the singer at his best form.
In this year's implosion, cultivating shift tinted ambient irony, the designer will scroll the SHEM, menswear salon in Paris, and to everyone's amazement, the man-skirt kilt.
1966. Perfume whatever is much yourself. This is far from self-taught designer escape. He launched a fragrance with attractive name "Bandit" for those in particular who the perfume is above all a great confession reveals that, without knowing for more modest.
In partnership with Jean-Marc Maniatis it introduces the concept of "fashion hairstyle." It provides a barber floor of his couture house where her clients enjoy the privilege of a parade for their care.
1967. Steeped in bold intuitive man, he is the first to launch a serious study of the inevitable mutation due to approximation of the sexes. His line "Neglected Snob" will be the undisputed answer. Unisex Line jersey, suggesting that the notion of what is right does not necessarily coincide with what is stuffy, dull and overpriced. Flexibility stripped outweighs the geometric rigor. Refined cuts, barely suggested to look, without excessive outline the waist and chest.
1968. The stylist moved Trianon villa, former residence of Finance Minister of Napoleon III, near the Bois de Boulogne and Parc de Saint Cloud, away from the rigors of modern life.
1969. Honoring fully the correctness of the specification of airlines, the designer reiterates image hostesses of Air Inter, Air India, Air Morocco.
Office style attached to licensing agreements is a hotbed of talent, we came across the young Anne-Marie Beretta, promising Jean Paul Gaultier , the Italian hot Cuban Miguel Cruz and greedy fashion, Jean Antoine Antoine Bernal and Romann .
The stylist makes an agreement with tours Baret and dresses several seasons at the scene as the city actresses Danielle Darrieux, Danièle Lebrun, Madeleine Robinson, Rosy Varte, Micheline Dax, Brigitte Fossey.
1970. Questioning first objective fashion, led him to play the couple in full development, that is to say in the trade and not the Guardianship in the alliance and not in competition. It is his job thoroughly, up to and including the prohibited direction. It therefore has a collection "unisex" which includes not only sets pants, but also dresses shirts for men. "Manliness does not dress, but exercises!" he retorted to his critics.
The embroiderer Pierre Mesrine project collaborator and mainly on the "Sumerian tunics" that some privileged people have admired at the Museum of Fashion and Textiles in 2002 at the exhibition on 70 years of concert dedicated to the wardrobe Jackie Kennedy.
1972. Launch by Nelson Rockefeller, Governor of the State of New York, the concept of "JACQUES ESTEREL FRENCH VILLAGE." New space where is presented the full range branded home: Fashion and Decoration. The designer revisits during the communication system from its beginnings, and especially its cultural Tuesdays, it calls for every day. It is now possible to monitor these places, interspersed passage dresses, lectures on the history of French art and the most persevering, learn the language of Molière.
The young polytechnicien Bernard Arnault fixed his choice on the house Jacques Esterel to perform his training period at the end of study.
1974. Floored after a ruptured aneurysm, it rests in the cemetery of Bourg Argental. Appreciated by his staff he is aware of the great misfortunes and small joys for any reaction against an indelicate used, it increases his wages considering his gesture to be the result of a lack of attention to its adjustment wage from its director of human relations.
He bequeathed his collaborators brand JACQUES ESTEREL located in 25 countries supported by 305-licensed manufacturers and forty patents.